Back on the road yesterday after our bus trip to Braga for a day to explore the relatively new Bom Jesus basilica on Wednesday.
I love walking. I do so little usually - not sure why - so on a journey like this I appreciate the simple rhythm of walking. Add to that the variety of vistas, road and track surfaces (still plenty of cobblestones), conversations or silence, and a day on rhe road is wonderful.
I am drawn less to the huge churches, many ornate and gilded, full of the typical Portugese blue and white tiles. Nor to the dark churches which are cold and musty. With one exception. For a reason I cannot grasp we were all very moved by our time in the Romanesque church at Rates. Local people dropped in to pray and we too found solace there. I was touched by the glorious vases full of the most beautiful white flower arrangements, all matching, and heaps of them.
What draws me most is simplicity. A market full of fresh produce and seedlings and bustling with morning shoppers. A vine turning red against an azure sky. A paddock of horned beasts gently munching the short blades of grass remaining. A Saint Bernard on a roof top, with a husky bark - ? from barking at pilgrims all summer.
Then we arrived here. What a glorious place. And because it was a short day, 15 km, we have had plenty of time to enjoy.it. George, our host, and his wife have converted her family's property into accommodation. We are in one of 3 suites and there is another building at the top of the property for guests as well. Stone walls, en suite like 2 concrete and glass capsules in the room, wine press in the dining room, outdoor chairs and tables. Stylish and comfortable. Love it.
Interesting how our bag transfers work. Apparently one person does the whole route from Porto to Santiago each day collecting and dropping off bags to each place along the way.
We have been saddened these last few days to hear that an elder from our church has been dying, and woke today to the news of his death yesterday morning. Our thoughts and prayers are with him and his family and our church as we all grieve.
Soon we will be having breakfast and donning our day packs and heading out the blue door straight onto the pilgrim trail, heading for Ponte da Lima.
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