Hi everyone, from Colle di Val d'Elsa. We have again had some rich and varied experiences, as well as having to make decisions together about what we do and how we travel.
Since I (Merran) wrote from Altopascio, we have had a night at San Miniato Basso, Gambassi Terme and San Gimignano. At SMB we stayed in a room set aside for pilgrims as part of a church based hospital/primary health care centre/aged care facility/ambulance station, as fireworks and parties raged through the night. Tim and I enjoyed a quiet moment in the very modern church in the same area. We slipped out of a very quiet town the next morning, at the start of a very long day to Gambassi Terme. After the long dry summer Tuscany was not at its best, very dusty and the atmosphere hazy. Still we enjoyed the long paths through the hills, skirting olive groves and vineyards, past ancient ruins and deserted houses, as well as vibrant farm houses. Thankfully there was a bar open as we passed through the only town en route about 3 km along the road, as there really were no other options to get supplies.
It was a public holiday and we passed many people harvesting olives, often in pairs and chatting as they worked, and keen to exchange a greeting as we passed through. The final ascent into Gambassi Terme was pretty long and hard, and we were most relieved to arrive at our accommodation. Another special place. A young couple ran the pilgrim centre, and it had been beautifully restored with a very artistic flair, modern art, preserved beams, new plastering, and a wonderful art exhibition on display. We were served a delicious 2 course meal, pasta with pesto and fresh tomato, then barbecued pork chops with chick peas.
The long day had taken its toll, so we chose to take public transport to San Gimignano yesterday. Bus, train, bus. We just loved the ancient town! We had been expecting it to be horribly touristy, but it was actually really beautifully enlivened, compared to our visit there 25 years ago. We were most warmly welcomed to the Foresteria of San Girolamo by a wonderful nun who seemed genuinely interested in finding out a bit about us and why we were taking a pilgrimage. The mother superior of the order is a doctor as well as having studied 8 years of theology. It was apparent there are a number of pilgrims coming through expecting to be offered accommodation at no charge or very little cost, and this was a real difficulty for the monasteries with few resources, especially staffing. We were given a special bible verse each as we left this morning.
Today was just the best day for me! We began with a visit to San Gimignano 1300. This is the culmination of a 3 year research and art project, with a handmade clay reconstruction of the village as it was at its peak in 1300. A beautiful young Art Historian showed us through the museum, then to the contemporary art gallery and working art space that are part of the same complex. She explained the philosophy of the place - that they see themselves as a continuation of the history of the town, rather than a museum of a bygone era. It seemed to accurately portray our impression of the town.
Walking out after that inspiring visit, through forest tracks, woods, olive groves and vineyards made my spirit soar. So, so beautiful and free!
As we wanted to walk only a short distance today, we had to catch a bus into the city of Colle di Val d'Elsa. As we sprawled out on separate seats, I suddenly went pale - from being the only ones on the bus we were suddenly in the midst of a shouting, screaming, pushing, shoving sea of school kids trying to climb and jump around. Thankfully the bus driver had offered to let us know when to get off and we took the cue and jumped at the right time. We decided that another couple of kms to walk was wiser than transferring to another bus at the end of the school day, and we are now rested, showered and relaxing at our accommodation, preparing to book a place to stay tomorrow night at Monteriggiano.
