Montefiascone to Viterbo - Roman Roads and Maremmanos

There were two highlights on our downhill run to Viterbo today. The first was another 2 km section of Roman Road with the large smooth paving stones still intact after 2000 years. I tried imagining all the people who had walked this very road over the years, amazing that we could still walk the same stones.

Not long after we left the Roman Road our musings were brought to ground with a quick thump of reality. 4 large Marammano dogs left their herd of sheep grazing in open fields and came racing towards us, obviously intent on warning us away from their sheep. No fences! (The top photo is a web photo, we are in no condition to take photos when we meet these in real life, the shot underneath is the flock from a safe distance) These big and sometimes aggressive dogs live with their flocks and are highly protective. We have had dealings with them on several occasions, they are a bit threatening because they are always on the loose and are intent on warning you away. All OK unless your track goes close to where their flock is grazing. Mostly it is only one or two, sometimes with others breeds, but four was a bit scary. We stayed together, had our sticks ready and prepared to unveil our secret weapon (Merran and I have named it 'sting', Soph does not approve of the name). We kept it in reserve until one of the dogs closed in and I gave it just one short 'sonic burst' basically to warn it back in return. We have to say, that effect is instant and usually highly effective. The dog spun around and backed off, the others also gave us a bit more space. We were able to walk on unhindered, and our heart rates returned to normal eventually.

Viterbo is great. We enjoyed a walk this afternoon through the old Medieval quarter called San Pelligrino (Pilgrim). Something was going on with people in period costume around the museum. We enjoyed some 11th century churches and a wander around the area. Accomodation is booked for tomorrow with the help of the guy who runs the small B&B where we are tonight (on pilgrim rates) which is nice. I can now say the equivalent of "we are three pilgrims from Australia, a family, do you have lodging for us tomorrow?" I am very proud of this, however if the answer is anything other than si, va bene (yes, good), I am at a total loss. So I needed help tonight.