No place yet has bought the differences between Medieval and modern pilgrimage into quite as sharp a focus as Altopascio. For centuries this small city was home to the legendary Knights of Tau - an order of lay and religious monks committed to the care and protection of pilgrims on their way to Rome. Each evening for 1/2 an hour before and after sunset, the great bell 'La Smarrita' was rung from the church tower to guide pilgrims safely to town. The great hospital, one of the most important on the Via Francigena was a place to care for the many pilgrims rich and poor who became ill or needed assistance or even just lodging on their journey. Pilgrims were not always poor, many were nobles and the wealthy, so towns on the Via Francigena became wealthy, as did the thieves and brigands. The Knights of the Tau were given charge to watch over bridges in particular and to provide of safe crossings of dangerous areas. The Hebrew letter T, Tau, their symbol, is clear in the earliest documentation, in their seals and we saw it this evening painted still in the sanctuary of St Jacobi church. It was quite something tonight to walk around the now redeveloped buildings which once were the medieval hospital all surrounding the Piazza Ospitali.
Our journey in this afternoon was quite different... We too lost the way, three times, the marking on the VF is improving but still tricky in many places as we discovered. However a quick check on the GPS enabled iPad with Google Satellite Maps revealed where we missed an unmarked turn or an overgrown sign. No worries, a couple of streets later we are back on track. We have fitted back packs, with hydration systems, some snacks, good quality walking gear and local mobiles to stay in touch. Merran even carries a high tech protection device to deter aggressive dogs (and it works as we discovered a couple of days ago, as an angry set of bared teeth were sent backing up a drive way).
Although pilgrimage and the VF are definitely making a comeback, sadly the Knights of the Tau are now history, their great hospital, a restaurant and tourist centre. Pilgrims can still get a bed there in the summer months. Closed for us unfortunately. We still enjoyed a quiet moment in the historic church and had the priest stamp our credentials with the Mark of the Tau.
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