Thursday 20 October 2011

A Tale of Two Abbeys

For the last two nights we have stayed in functioning monastic communities. Different places (one isolated in the countryside, then other in the suburbs of a historical town), different orders (Cistercian and Franciscan), different vocations (prayer and social engagement) different histories (one a great Abbey of the 11th century, the other a fairly new complex) but the same faith and commitment. The difference in hospitality was marked to us as pilgrims. In the first we were begrudgingly shown the guest quarters by a very aged monk. If he was the guest master, I think he was well over it in more ways than one. There was only the basics, it was not overly clean or well organised and there were no instructions for guests or indications of where and how things worked. We got what we needed in the village and departed early this morning. No sign of anyone at any point to assist or guide us. We saw a couple of other monks who were also very old. The monastery itself was massive and in good order. Obviously by the buses coming in and out of the place in the afternoon it was now a tourist attraction. Most of the tours could easily have been Probus groups on day trips from MIlan. The Monastery is obviously well known and the joining farm grange complex has been converted to a large hotel convention centre. Amazing space but we felt well out of place.

On arrival in Fidenza we found the Abbey of San Francesco. How different can hospitality be? A younger monk welcomed us, stamped our credentials, showed us to our rooms, explained how everything worked and left us in a spacious, clean and warm area of the monastery set aside for pilgrims. All information in four languages. Sophia and I had separate rooms. Kitchen, lounge and heaps of information for pilgrims. Even the way the "offering" is provided for is tasteful and carefully done. We would give this place "highly recommended" and the other a "only in necessity" pilgrim rating.

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