Monday 31 October 2011

Pilgrims and a sense of identity and place

Our fellow pilgrim, Roman, whom we spent two meals with a couple of days ago and is now ahead of us on the road made some interesting observations. He is a veteran of 9 separate Camminos to Santiago along different routes and many other pilgrimages throughout Europe. He was surprised to think we had heard of the VF as he said he only heard of it recently on one of his walks to Santiago and decided immediately to do it.

Roman's reflection was that pilgrims have a respect, identity and place in Italy that he has not experienced in other countries. In France, he reflected he was often asked to keep going in towns where he sought lodging, being given the sense that he was not particularly welcome. His experience in Spain was different largely because the Cammino Frances is huge with hundreds of people walking each day, there is quite a different level of servicing of pilgrims.

Italy appears to be different. The VF is not yet well known and has not become commercial in any sense. Here we have experienced the most extraordinary hospitality and respect. This evening we are staying in a specially set aside room in a large modern medical complex run by a branch of the church. The room is especially for pilgrims. There is a large pilgrim sign on the door. The are four beds, a bathroom and just the basics as needed. A quick call to Mario (he is obviously a professional of some sort) as we arrive and he collects our credentials, and makes us individualised certificates of our journey through San Miniato Basso. These are delivered back to us by a young handicapped man complete with a solid plastic pipe container so they do not get crushed in our backpacks.

In Lucca, we were fed and cared for with four meals by the leader of the Franciscan community who did not share sparingly but very generously, the best of meats and the finest of wines, as Isaiah would put it. In other places people have gone out of their way to assist and look after us. In places we stay, there are blessings for pilgrims displayed on the walls.

In our room this evening the prayer in 5 languages is.....

Wherever your journey began, and whatever your destination might be,
know dear pilgrim, that Christ's cross, the sign of love, will be your constant guide.


In Berceto, a picture of Jesus has the inscription, I was a pilgrim and you cared for me.

We have not always felt welcome or that we have a place, but this is very much the exception. Each evening we have no idea what we will find when we arrive at the accommodation we managed to arrange. All hotels seem the same, they are primarily commercial ventures, but pilgrim accommodation is rich, varied and full of surprises which are often great blessings. Most are free, simply providing a means for a donation if you are able to contribute. We give what we have worked out is about the standard amount. All we really have to offer is our heartfelt thanks and the blessing of the pilgrim in return.

"Pace e bene"

We hope and pray the VF does not become so over run with pilgrims that this generosity and care is lost.

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